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The Press Fraction Tasting Table for May 10, 2022
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The Press Fraction Tasting Table for May 10, 2022

Wines from Heron Hill, Port of Leonardtown, Six Eighty, Stone Tower, and Walloon Lake

Lenn Thompson
May 11
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The Press Fraction Tasting Table for May 10, 2022
pressfraction.substack.com

As I continue to taste and re-taste roses for the big East Coast 2021 Rose Report I’m working on, I’m still tasting other wines too in between (because who wants to only taste and read about rose?). Not me. That’s who. Probably not you either.

Here are some reviews of the wines I’ve been tasting. It’s a diverse grouping of wines that varies not only in style and region…but also in quality.


Heron Hill Winery 2020 P-Three ($25*)
Finger Lakes
Blend of pinot blanc, pinot noir, and pinot gris with a mix of fermentation vessels (stainless and neutral oak). Mostly pears, apple, and white cherry and a faint hint of peach on the nose. As it warms, there is some mushroom-y earth too. Brisk but a bit straightforward bordering on simple in its youth. Apple, peach, and grapefruit zest with some autumnal leaves. A bit short, but fresh on the finish. 87pts.

Heron Hill Winery 2020 White Pinot Noir ($25*)
Finger Lakes
Ripe strawberries and red cherries with layers of spice and earth — especially as it gets some air and warms just a bit. Medium body with fresh, balanced acidity. Has enough flavor, but it’s more about the interplay of weight and acidity, and texture. Cranberry, strawberry, and rhubarb flavors with a squirt of lime. Long, juicy finish. 90pts.

Port of Leonardtown 2021 Vintner’s Select White ($35*)
Maryland
Blend of 50% viognier, 25% chardonnay and 25% albarino. Smells of green, underripe grapefruit with layers of Anjou pear, flowers, and lemongrass. Brisk and lean, the palate features bright acidity, but the fruit flavors taste very underripe. Expensive too. 84pts.

Six Eighty Cellars 2021 Merlot Rose Pet-Nat ($32*)
Finger Lakes
Cherry and dried cranberry with spice and herbs on the nose. Similar on the palate with a little black plum. Good acidity and nice frothy carbonation that matches the style. There’s a hint of tomato paste savoriness that I like but that might not be for everyone. 88pts.

Six Eighty Cellars 2021 Pinot Meunier Rose Pet-Nat ($32*)
Finger Lakes
Very funky nose. Grilled bread, dried leaves. Almost no fruit (just a little dried cherry). Similar flavors on the palate. Sour cherry and strawberry but also funky and medicinal and earthy. Properly carbonated with nice acidity. 83pts.

Stone Tower Winery 2021 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc ($40*)
Virginia
Aged in 10% concrete and 20% new French oak. Pretty nose of honeydew melon, peach, citrus, and white flowers with virtually no oak footprint. Big, round and rich with just a bit of oak flavor at the edges. Creamy mid-palate into the finish with juicy acidity that frames melon and peach flavors. There is a marshmallow note on the finish that is a bit distracting by not overly so. 88pts.

Stone Tower Winery 2021 Reserve Viognier ($40*)
Virginia
Aged in 25% new French oak. Taut on the nose with peach, honeysuckle and a welcome note of candied ginger. That ginger quality is even more present on the fuller-bodied palate that wears the 14+% abv fairly well. Succulent with peach and apricot flavors that lean a bit tropical. There is a slight bitterness on the finish but in some ways it brings a bit more structure. 87pts.

Walloon Lake Winery 2020 “Rosie” Rose ($24*)
Tip of the Mitt (Michigan)
Made from Marquette. The nose features notes of raspberry and lime with hints of tropical fruit and dry earth. Straightforward with lots of acidity but also good fruit concentration. Balanced but brisk. Mostly red berries but also nice tropical undertones. Not long, but not short either. 87pts.


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Thank You to Founding Members

I hope to have a little news about the first bit of Founding Member merch soon, but to start the year, I just want to thank them here in the newsletter. Thank you:

Deji Abraham, The Wine Club Site
John Cifelli, Unionville Vineyards
Liz Stamp, Lakewood Vineyards


*Sample provided by the winery

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